Thursday, November 3, 2011

Enter Gudiyam Caves... Found the Cavemen!


Enter Gudiyam Caves... Found the Cavemen!

Get outta Town!*

Chennai is a concrete jungle! People here have monotonously robotic lives. Deadline has become the lifestyle. Citizens from different corners ensure keeping themselves busy. Everyone enjoys working against the clock! Stress levels are on the rise at an alarming rate! Thinking of future, everyone forgets nature. Those who think of nature do not have the time to stop and admire. Sounds familiar, isn't it?

These are just myths spreading spuriously like cancerous cells. Like many big cities around the world, Chennai too has beautiful patches of lush green jungle amidst and around these towering corporates. A little patience and perseverance will soothe the mind, body and soul.

Adventure to the Caves

One such place is just about 2 hours away from Chennai. At 12 kilometers away from Poondireservoir lies the serene beauty of this location that has caves and is called as Gudiyam caves (to be read as goodiyam caves - கூடியம் குகைகள்). This is a tiny hamlet which can be easily reachable via road.

Poondi is a small village near Tiruvallur, is situated at a distance about 60 km in north of Chennai. Frequent buses are available from Chennai and Tiruvallur to reach this place.

The auspicious date, December 12, 2009, was chosen for a trip to venture to Gudiyam caves. I still doubt that whether the date was auspicious enough, as there were these TV channels and online news websites howling on top of their throats forecasting thunderstorms. The met department knew little that that day is going to be picked for heart-filling trekking experience.

Trekking is Teamwork

Samudiram (Sam, his nick being Creative Sam) started to browse through the websites to find a good location to trek. Jagadeesh (Jag) joined Sam in finding out the location. Actually, what he was doing unwittingly was to throw in more options eventually causing more confusions. They pulled me (Raj) in. A wildlife enthusiast by nature, never ventured in trekking sprees. These three caballeros squeezed ideas from their brains, using whatever their IT workload left as gray matter in their cranial casings. Finally, the location was fixed as Gudiyam caves.

It needs five fingers to complete a forelimb. Likewise, it requires five friends to ensure the completeness in the fun trip. Suresh and Thiagarajan (Thiagu) joined their hands to complete the finger count.

Logos, Pathos and Ethos
These three golden words were uttered by the great Plato himself. He told the trio to be a guide for writing and speeches. I would add that these are essential even for trips, especially out of your city, out of your comfort zone.

Logos: The Latin word for Logic. Logistics was derived from this word. The logistics was decided. Sam's car will be our chariot that will suffice to reach and return. The glucose packets, water bottles, biscuit packets, thirst-quenching sweet orange candies were packed and we were all set to go. We also ensured out wit-machinery is intact and will be thoroughly functional throughout the trip.

The route to the place was not known to even one of the 5 great fellas. Google maps showed only dark green patches all over the area we were interested in. It dawned on us that there were no proper maps available. However the advantage is that who needs a map in India, when there are kind people everywhere to help you around! The only source of information was a blog in 2004 narrating the experiences of our forerunners having ventured into this very same spot. They have even clearly mentioned the hamlets one has to pass through to reach that place; or so we thought!

Pathos: Emotions. Everyone loved nature and the wilderness and were looking forward to some nice interactive walking experience with nature.
 
Ethos: Ethics of travel. Everyone to assemble by 4:45 am to Koyambedu bus terminus by their own travel means. Each one carries their bags, equipment and their wisdom leaving back their egos safe and secure locked in their closets. Time of departure was fixed at 5 am on Koyambedu.

We were so spoilt by the clockwork robot-like routine that we needed a deadline to return. The estimated time of return was 11 am.

Gliding to Gudiyam!
The plan was up. Everything seemed to be perfect. Thus came the day, 12-Dec-09. Everyone assembled at Koyambedu bus stand by 5 am. The bikes and car were parked and Sam's car, filled with trekking enthusiasts, roared its engine glided off by 5:05 am.

On a cloudy day with the cold breeze on our faces, we set off through Avadi towards Tiruvallur. After crossing Avadi, close to Pattabiram, we parked the car near a tea shop and parked the tea, coffee and light beverages inside our empty guts. To complete our inventory, some biscuit packets were bought along with couple of bottles of water. Nature's calls were also answered by watering the plants beside the highway with liquid fertilisers.

Just as sleeping baby, the sun wiped its sleepy eyes and started to throw rays of light at all directions.

Pitstop (Gut-stop!)

The next place where we stopped was "Akshaya Bhavan" a highway motel in Tiruvallur. It's available at the left side of the road (NH 205). The place is well maintained and they also start off early perhaps to cater to the needs of the adventurists and travelers alike. The place is well maintained and the food is also good to eat. There is a play area for the kids with swings and slides. Nice pitstop for one and all. 

We filled ourselves with Idlies and Vadas immersed with chutneys and sambar. The items were topped with coffee and tea. However, we made sure not to be too full as we were looking forward for the trek.

Poondi Reservoir and Furthermore

By taking the right turn after Akshaya Bhavan, the road led us straight to Poondi reservoir. Without taking any diversions, but a few turns and sharp bends, the well-laid road leads straight into the reservoir. We drove through the reservoir slowly enjoying the gentle breeze and the bird-life around the water body. Early morning visuals are eternal.

The road leads to the bridge which is built on the top of the floodgates. To reach Gudiyum, we crossed the bridge and drove straight to where the road led us. After a few minutes of drive (probably after a kilometre or two), we were queried by a crossroad. To follow the right path, take right into the road leading to Nambakkam. The snaking roads lead to Nambakkam. Make sure not to take diversions and stick to the tar road, whcih is wide enough to allow two maxi cabs at the same time (one maxi cab should wheel some mud on one side for sure!)

Shootout in Nambakkam 

The road leading to Nambakkam and Goonipalayam were collared by large green fields filled with bird-life in the farmlands and on the electric cables. Now that our stomachs were filled, we readied ourselves to fill the stomachs of our cameras with the snaps. We halted the car, ventured into the fields, ensuring not to stomp on the grains and plants to satisfy our photographical hunger.
  

Birdlife in these areas included drongos, little hawks, bulbuls, sparrows, crows (the crows in these areas are fat and strong!), crow pheasant, terns, mynahs, cranes, egrets, storks (painted and open bills), herons, little cormorants, paradise flycatchers and a few beeeaters. Also we bumped into a few cobwebs holding the mist like a mother holds her child. There were a few frogs hopping around cursing our presence. There were spiders and grasshoppers to fulfil the macro-life. Not to forget the amount of beautiful butterflies fluttering by. We also noticed a water beetle and few waterstriders rowing in the irrigated stagnant water around the crops. After some photographic moments, we decided to go to the location of our prime interest.

Pondering the Pattis (பட்டிகளைச்சுற்றிப்பார்தோம்)

After Nambakkam, our trustworthy(!) route-guide mentioned about Nambakkam; Gooni Palayam (கூனி பாளையம்); Seettancheri; Right Diversion (Gudiyam). Following this map we took many right turns (not quite right!) and ventured to Gooni Palayam, Seettancheri and even crossed Seettancheri. We were constanly inquiring the locals as much as we could and kept moving forward.

Then came the shock when we stumbled upon on a crossroad with the direction pointers. We were taken aback to read the directions which were like this: Take left to reach Oothukkottai (ஊத்துக்கோட்டை) and take right to reach Thiruvallur (the place where we started the adventure). One was quick to comment "Guys, now that we've seen all pattis, let's go back to our pattinam (city)!".

Gudiyum Village, Here we come!

Then we decided to track back our footprints (rather tire-prints). Then we stopped wherever we saw diversions, first near Seettancheri, but no result. Then we went back till Gooni Palayam and took the turn which we did not take earlier. There a excessively friendly locals guided us the right path. We realised that we had out-ventured at least a dozen kilometers more.

The right route is as follows:
1. Reach the Poondi Reservoir bridge.
2. Take the straight road till the signboard showing the right arrow to Nambakkam.
3. Take the road leading to the right hand side and take the road to Nambakkam.
4. Cross Nambakkam and continue journey till Gooni Palayam is reached. 
5. The roads split into two ways exactly after 10 km journey from the Poondi bridge. The path on the right is not the right way and is best to be left out. The path on the left is the right path to be taken.
6. Take left turn and drive about 2 kilometers in the weather beaten tar road.
7. After 2 kilometers of almost bumpy journey, on to the right side of the road, there will be a huge notice board (about 3 feet tall and 4 feet wide), which has a torn flex paper. The other side of the signboard is still intact and has the route to Gudium Caves.
8. Once you see the signboard, take right turn on the pebble filled road. Sam was thoughtful to shift the gear to second gear and took off his foot off all the pedals.
9. About one kilometer of really bumpy journey and then we reached the Gudiyum village.

Boy Escorts! Lead the Way!

On reaching the location we met two local boys, who were shy were reluctant to guide us to the caves. With little persuasion from their kind mother, they agreed to guide us to the caves. Madhan the elder brother studying 9th standard (in a school that is 5 km away from Gudiyum) accompanied with Madhu the younger one studying 8th standard joined us as guides. We ordered for nice village lunch in their home, as we knew that the 10-odd km trek would fire up our gluttonous hunger; and who would say no to a tasty village meal, which is kind of rarity for city-dwellers.

Thus started the 5 km long trek.  It is a lonesome place belonging to the forest department. Therefore it is advisable to bring along the necessary provisions.

The provisions should be packed keeping in mind that the venturing area is remote and help will not arrive soon and therefore must include:

1) Enough water bottles (there is no water source in the area and the only pool
available also is not potable),
2) Glucose packets (to cater to the dipping energy) would be required especially on a hot day,
3) Chocolates and candies to quench the thirst while walking and reduce drinking stops,
4) Biscuits and choco-bars, which can be eaten leisurely while resting in the caves and on the rocks,
5) First-aid kit containing little amount of cotton, Dettol, ache balms (especially for the muscular sprains), pain relieving spray, bandaids and a pair of scissors.

Peeking into the Past

There are many large pebbles bearing white arrows indicating the path to the caves. However, one has to have a sharp eye to capture them.

On the way, we observed many stones used by the paleolithic people. One is able to view the different sharp stones and pebbles which were used as tools by our forebearers long time ago. 

We were shown a bunch of long leaved grass which smelled awesome when rubbed between our palms. The smell stayed with us for very long. For the noses stung badly by the artificial perfumeries, this was an excellent way to unwind. There are eucalyptus trees in both banks of the path. Since we could not afford a botanist, could not pick the nomenclature of the flora that we observed there. And who needs the names to admire the beauty of the trees.


There was a place where a tiny pathway led underground (as shown in the picture above). Madhu told that it is another cave but can be accessed only on crouching, crawling and slithering through. He also mentioned that sadhus and swamiyars who were living here used to venture into these crevices and do meditation.  Not wanting to explore into the caves and not wanting to become a sanyasi, we took a few snaps of the cave's mouth and moved on.Word of Caution: Never venture into these caves because there could be snakes, bats, poisonous insects and poisonous gases in the cave.

First Cave

After crossing almost 4 km, shooting the wildlife (flora and fauna - insects like caterpillars, millipedes, butterflies, dragonflies and the colourful beetles; birds and a few humans - us), and teasing each other displaying our wit and possible wisdom, we landed near a thicket with enough room to allow one fat person to move through freely. We saw to our right having hill formations that looked like the lateral view of an elephant (check out the first photo in this blog).

After drinking in the beauty of the natural elephant rock formations, we moved into the thicket wondering what kind of wild creatures we may trod upon, we reached the first cave. What an awesome sight!

The place is full invisible air - clean, fresh, unpolluted (reminded me of what the Admiral of the nuclear submarine said in the movie 'Crimson Tide'!). One can feel the air filling the lungs (just as we can feel the first drink of hot water entering our guts early in chilly mornings). The pure air does not just fill the lungs, but fill the hearts with peace at ease. It also lifts the spirits and generates positive energy. I know nothing about vaasthu and feng shui, except their names, but I realised that the best direction is always the one pointing towards raw virgin nature untouched or rarely touched by man. Untouchability is a sin, crime and what not; but I advise untouchability towards nature as man's touch has always proven disastrous for the natures intricate balance.

There are many beehives in the rock creeks and crevices. There are both active brown hives buzzing with bees and abandoned white colour hives. The floor was littered with a few white abandoned hives which was still bearing the sweet smell of honey.

Remember to be quiet and speak in low voice. Need not whisper, but voice should be as low as possible in order not to disturb the bee colonies. If stung, proper medical aid is available only beyond many kilometers walk and a few kilometers drive.

We wondered that who would reside with these bees in the caves. Pat came the answer. The screeching of the parakeets made our heads turn and there were parakeet colony and we also noted a few babblers, mynahs and drongoes in the vicinity. This showed the altruistic behaviour between animals.

The ceiling of the caves are littered with the broken mud nests of wasps and hornets. Most of the nests are abandoned, maybe because it is not the nesting season for them.

The cave had an Amman statue with the trident, along with lots of baked-mud horse dolls. It also had a bell for ringing. As educated by our boy escorts, this is their place of worship for the locals. We wondered how the ceremonies could happen peacefully in the presence of the bees!

Jag, Sam, Suresh and Thiagu invested some time shooting in and around the cave. I climbed the boulders in the cave with Madhu and sat down and meditated for a while consuming the real wild beauty as much as possible. Also posed for a few snaps (it is good not to have a camera as you can be in front of the lens and not behind it). Check out one snap on the left where I try to fly like a bird under the ceiling filled with hornet and wasp nests.

Second Cave

After spending some time in the first cave, we moved on to the next cave. The second cave is there after we retraced our footsteps almost half way back to Gudium village. This cave is one nice challenge for heavily built people, as it was little steep, but the stones in the path had stones which looked like steps. Could be the efforts of our paleolithic cavemen.
This cave is safe void of the beehives. However, we found a few tiny frogs and toads as well as snake's peeled skin. It should be a water snake, probably one of the keelbacks. So, it is evident that the area has snakes. There is a tiny pond in the top of the cave indicating more proofs for the presence of a water-based ecosystem.

After having snacks (biscuits, chips, moongi dhal and glucose) inside the cave, we ventured to climb on top of the cave and got down on the other side. The view from top of the cave's mouth was awesome and describing the feeling in words would be demeaning the experience.

View from top of the second cave. Note the rock formation similar to elephant heads.

Thus we enjoyed the gloomy day in and on the caves and walked back teasing each other with the little amount of energy left in each of us. All through the trip, we ensured not to leave any trails of our travel. Also  made sure not to leave back any litter right from polythene papers, wafers or even the biscuit covers or water bottles.

Lunch and Back to Pavilion

As we were reaching the hut, the met department's words came true and clouds opened their arms to release a light drizzle. We entered Madhu/Madhan's huts jogging and readied ourselves looking forward to a splendid meal. The food was really good and we gobbled it after a very good nature trek. Somebody commented 'Any food is very good for a tired tummy'. Jokes apart, the food was spicy and good and we relished it.

We exchanged pleasantries and left the place with hearts full of joy and minds full of high morale discussing the day and the next trekking plan. On the way back to Chennai, we halted in Poondi reservoir, enjoyed the cool breeze that swept along. In the car, we started to admire the souvenirs from the caves trip - the photos.

We reached by 3:30 pm (refer the expected time of arrival earlier in this post) and parted our ways to our respective homes. That night we slept so well dreaming to be like the paleolithic cavemen.


1 comment:

  1. Dear Dr. VS. Suresh, this is my post from 2009. Please give due credits or remove the post. Thank you very much. Truly appreciate it!

    ReplyDelete